Scirocco Central

288 and 312 do use the same pads.

Apologies, my mistake then....

Brilliant!!! Thanks for all you help guys.

Cuprabob wrote:Apologies, my mistake then....

I thought it was odd too

Hi again guys. Does anyone remember what screw size I need to remove the guide pins?? I thought it was a 7mm Allen key, now I'm hearing a T45 :/. Also, what size socket do I need for the bolts that hold the carrier on? Thanks.

Attempted this today and oh my goodness.... it's a lot tougher than I perhaps first thought. I don't think my brakes have been changed before so all the components were seized or stuck!! Anyway, I can't get the old disc off. I've taken the locating pin off but it's corroded on. Banged it so the underside of my hammer so many times but no joy. I've done everything else and I just need to get this off and sort the reassembly. Any tips??

dimexi wrote:Attempted this today and oh my goodness.... it's a lot tougher than I perhaps first thought. I don't think my brakes have been changed before so all the components were seized or stuck!! Anyway, I can't get the old disc off. I've taken the locating pin off but it's corroded on. Banged it so the underside of my hammer so many times but no joy. I've done everything else and I just need to get this off and sort the reassembly. Any tips??

A little bit of heat will get it off....or hit it harder:-)

Don't own a blow torch, so don't think I'll get a decent enough heat source, but I'll hit it harder for sure and see if it gives.
Thanks! Will keep you updated and probably post tips in here that'll help someone else.

dimexi wrote:Don't own a blow torch, so don't think I'll get a decent enough heat source, but I'll hit it harder for sure and see if it gives.
Thanks! Will keep you updated and probably post tips in here that'll help someone else.

Not too expensive to pick one up.
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dimexi wrote:Attempted this today and oh my goodness.... it's a lot tougher than I perhaps first thought. I don't think my brakes have been changed before so all the components were seized or stuck!! Anyway, I can't get the old disc off. I've taken the locating pin off but it's corroded on. Banged it so the underside of my hammer so many times but no joy. I've done everything else and I just need to get this off and sort the reassembly. Any tips??

Rubber mallet from the back side. Whack it hard as fook.

Guy at work has suggested a "gear puller" which he'll bring in for me. So will try that and a rubber mallet. I didn't think I needed the handbrake down/released for the front discs to come off... just confirming.... does it need to be released?

dimexi wrote:Guy at work has suggested a "gear puller" which he'll bring in for me. So will try that and a rubber mallet. I didn't think I needed the handbrake down/released for the front discs to come off... just confirming.... does it need to be released?

What set of brakes does the handbrake operate?

dimexi wrote:Guy at work has suggested a "gear puller" which he'll bring in for me. So will try that and a rubber mallet. I didn't think I needed the handbrake down/released for the front discs to come off... just confirming.... does it need to be released?

Not unless somebody has stuck a Scirocco badge on an old SAAB which has a separate drum brake inside the front disc.:-)

Hahaha!!! That's what I figured. Handbrake only for rears. He just wanted me to make sure. Still not had a chance to finish yet as work is getting in the way

Took a gear puller and a "light" tap with a rubber mallet to get it off. Came off pretty easy and wish I had that from the word go.
Put them all back together (fronts) and taken for a test drive - they feel pretty good and no noise at all or odd vibrations. Pretty pleased with the outcome.

I didn't take many photos cos I just wanted to get it done haha

For anyone who wants to know, I used these two reference guides:
Mick's Garage was really good as a general guide, especially for torques that I needed to use. I am an engineer by trade, so I am a bit of a stickler for rules and believe the manufacturer sets torque limits for a reason, and they need to be followed, especially in safety critical systems.

Scirocco brake change video was ABSOLUTELY a God send! especially for the tools I needed to use, he has them all spot on. I have to say though, he makes it look a bit easy... His carrier bolts for instance came off easily, without him needing to turn the wheels.... I suspect hasnt torqued his system up properly. But nonetheless, absolutely spot on.

Tools needed:
1/2" drive Breaker bar
17mm socket (for 1/2" square drive) to remove the wheel bolts
A flat bladed screwdriver to take off the Brake wear sensor and the anti-vibration clip
A 7mm allen key on a square drive OR a T45 Torx bit to undo the caliper guide pins
A 13/16" (21mm) socket for the carrier bolts
Gear Puller + Rubber mallet (optional)

You will probably need spanners as well

I'm not surprised they feel better based on the state of that disc that you took off:-)

HAHAHA!!!! I thought exactly that when I got the wheel off. As tempting as it was to just do the pads, I couldnt stand the state of the Disc.

The rears look just as bad. Wont be doing them just yet, will wait another couple of weeks

So, I decided to do the rears today. Loosened wheel bolts, jacked the car up (clear of the ground) removed the wheel bolts and the wheel didn't come off the hub.... tugged and tugged but the wheel wouldn't budge. Is this normal?!?! I mean, I'm ok with stuck discs, but the wheel?!?!

dimexi wrote:So, I decided to do the rears today. Loosened wheel bolts, jacked the car up (clear of the ground) removed the wheel bolts and the wheel didn't come off the hub.... tugged and tugged but the wheel wouldn't budge. Is this normal?!?! I mean, I'm ok with stuck discs, but the wheel?!?!

Put the wheel bolts back in loosely and lower the car onto the ground. Jack back up, remove wheel bolts and it should now come off. If not, belt the tyre with a mallet.

It's not uncommon. It's down to the chemical reaction between the dissimilar metals of the wheel and hub.